David Craw of Cambridge-Narrows used to live onboard a 13-metre trawler in Hong Kong harbour before he became a winemaker.
 
He earned his living as a senior captain, flying large Airbus jets for Cathay Pacific to remote and exotic locales. After he was diagnosed with an irregular heartbeat in 1998, his wings were clipped.
 
He was forced out of the skies and into retirement at age 50. He sold the trawler, packed up his earthly possessions and moved to New Brunswick. He had no relatives or friends here and he had no knowledge of farming or winemaking, yet he boldly purchased a 110-acre property in Cambridge-Narrows. The pilot project had begun.

The first vines were planted in 2002 and many didn't make it through the winter. Although disheartened, Craw was well aware of the many obstacles he would face. New hardier stock was planted in 2003. Excavators were brought in to break up the bedrock under the shallow soil. Fields were tile drained. Post holes were dug and miles of wires were stretched across the trestles.

Weeds were pulled. Pests and disease were battled. Fencing was erected to keep deer and raccoons from raiding the crop. Bird netting has kept feathered friends at bay. The learning curve has been steep for Craw.

The Motts Landing wharf punctuates the waters of Washademoak Lake just one kilometre from the vineyard. Decades ago the steamships would pull up to the wharf and local produce would be loaded for Saint John markets. In honour of this agricultural tradition, Craw has named his business the Motts Landing Vineyard. His home is a modern take on the traditional farm house.

A small harvest this autumn yielded about one ton of grapes . From this initial harvest wine will be made. Harvests will grow exponentially each year as new vines come into production. De-stemming equipment will be purchased. Crushers installed. "We should break even by selling wine at $1000 per bottle", David chuckles. Jokes aside, establishing a sizeable vineyard is an expensive proposition.

David Craw is currently the vice-president of the New Brunswick Grape Growers Association. This group represents the concerns of many vineyard owners. Roger Tremblay, small fruit specialist at the New Brunswick Department of Agriculture, estimates vineyard acreage in the neighbourhood of seventy. Motts Landing Vineyard accounts for six of those acres and has plans for another five acres of vines. Nova Scotia boasts over three hundred acres. The industry is growing in both provinces.

The Maritime climate sits on the edge of suitability for commercial grape growing. Global warming and new, winter hardy rootstocks are making the region more viable.  David Craw is proving that it can be done. He expects to have a marketable wine ready in 2008.